Vietnam Day One: Hoi An

We made it to Vietnam! Layton still can't believe how long we had to fly and that we are 14 hours, one day, completely ahead of everyone at home! 



But considering the long flight, we are doing pretty well dealing with jet lag. We had no problem getting up at an early time to start our first day in Hoi An. It started with an amazing breakfast full of all sorts of new foods to try. I always find it interesting how many other countries in the world eat what we would consider lunch or dinner items for breakfast. Scott and I tried a large variety of new items in small portions and loved it all. Layton tried to stay with only things that looked familiar... Like banana pancakes but he was disappointed when he could find any butter or syrup so he stuck with just adding jam. 



Then we took the shuttle to town to get the boys fitted for a custom suit. Layton didn't seem too excited about getting a new suit until we got him in there and he started looking at fabrics and pictures of James Bond in suits to pick from. He got really excited when he realized he could get a vest to go with it! And of course he chose the most expensive fabric! Not that big of a deal if he weren't growing an inch every month! So we are hoping they really are leaving extra in the sleeves and pants to let out as he grows. Scott also got a new dark gray suit, 6 shirts and two cashmere wool slacks. His Father's Day gifts just keep coming! They told us to come back that same day around 5:00 pm to try them all on. Layton was hilarious! He is so in love with himself in his new suit! He just keep saying out loud over and over again, "oh yeah, layton, oh yeah Layton!" 








We walked around town a bit and Scott stopped in to get a $3 hair cut. He didn't really need one but the price was right and he thought shorter hair would be cooler. Layton and I walked around looking at some stores then went back thinking dad would be all done, but he wasn't! The guy now had on a head lamp and a really long instrument and was going in dad's ears like a coal miner looking for wax! Well, I think his ear wax cost us missing our shuttle back to the hotel!  





After getting measured and Scott's haircut, we went on a tour of Tra Que vegetable village. Our guide, Helen, who we quickly named 'Crazy Helen' because she constantly tried to pull a fast one on us, met us at our hotel with bikes and off we rode to the village. It's a little nerve-wracking riding on the streets here since it is packed with cars, mo-peds and bikes and there don't seem to be any rules of the road except honk your horn at everyone. But we were soon off on a country road and it was more enjoyable. Our cute guide, crazy Helen, stopped to show us the spot were grandma fell on her bike and cut up her head and as she did so, Scott crashed into the fence off the road and got his foot stuck! We had a good laugh over that but we're glad we didn't have any bleeding or detours into town for injuries! 





Layton was very relieved to arrive at the village and get off the bike. The village was so picturesque and peaceful. We started off with a cold drink made of ginger, lemon grass and little lemongrass basil seeds (which our guide tried to trick us into thinking were frog eggs). 




I thought it was alright, dad drank his out of respect, and Layton dumped his in the bush when no one was watching! Due to heat, we started with the cooking demonstrations were we could be in the shade. We learned how to make rice paper, then made rice paper rolls and ate them. They were delicious! Layton didn't like it of course, but he did try it. Then we made a different type of roll, called the three friends rolls, which had pork, shrimp and herbs (mint and cilantro). And yes, those were delicious too! I've decided I absolutely love Vietnamese food because it seems like everything has cilantro in it! Layton ate the meat out of those rolls. 







Then we made Vietnamese pancakes. They were ugly but good! We had to fry them up in hot oil and then flip them in our pan. That's were they got ugly. Our flipping skills could use some work.  But oh my goodness, they were good! 








Then we went to ride a water buffalo. But not before we got clothed in traditional farming clothes. Our guide Helen asked both Scott and Layton if they wanted to stand up on him and they thought she was kidding again and said no. I went last and took her up on the offer. There is no saddle of course so you had to really balance when riding (and standing!). 






Then we went out on the river, where they fish for eel and clams, in a traditional round fishing boat made of bamboo and cow poop. We rowed around a bit and got some water coconut leaves and our guide made us crowns, rings and a flower out of them for us. 





Then it was still so hot that we didn't do any farming and went straight to the head, neck and foot massage for $5. They soaked our feet in warm water mixed with lemon grass and some other herbs (all in a bamboo bowl made from bamboo and cow poop of course). 




Layton was just going to soak his feet since he hates being touched but decided he wanted to try and brave a foot massage. The ladies had a good laugh watching him squirm and scream every time they tried to touch his feet! I don't think we will try any massages with him this trip! We got a serenade by one of the ladies and they would hit and slap and punch our feet to fit the song she was singing, it was a different massage but felt great! It was a really nice, relaxing tour. We loved everything about it except Layton was growing tired of being called 'boy' and Scott was tired of Helen telling him he was fat. (Layton has been called 'boy' ever since we got here- at the tailor, at the tour and at the restaurant. So we've taken to just calling him Boy too!) Then we took a taxi back to our hotel, rested a bit and went back to town for the boy's fittings. 



Once a month they have a lunar festival in the ancient town and yesterday happened to be the lunar. The ancient town was packed with performers, music, games and people. And of course the river was full of beautiful floating candle lamps. People make a wish on the lamp then send it off in the water to come true. 








We had heard there was a good restaurant that served more western food called Mango. Finding it took all night! The people here are so friendly but they can not give directions! We walked in circles all night with about 6 different directions from people. But layton was on a mission to find food he recognized! We found it, it was yummy, and I had a green papaya salad with lots of, yes you guessed it, cilantro! 


Every store keeper had a table set out along the street with incense burning and food set out. When we asked about it we were told they did this twice a month. It is called veneration for the dead. They set food out for their dead ancestors to make sure they don't starve in the afterlife and say prayers for their dead as well as in hope that their ancestors will take care of them for doing so.  The part of ancient town we were in was pedestrians only so after we found our way back out to a street with cars, we caught a taxi back to the hotel and could barely make into bed before we crashed. It was a good start to our trip! 








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